Small wine country nestled in the Alpilles, the name Les Baux de Provence AOC could become the first 100% organic France. This will convince the remaining recalcitrant, and to overcome regulatory obstacles French
... "This is the easiest place in the world for Bio! "We readily admit Dominique Hauvette, renowned winemaker of this small wine region, nestled in the Alpilles.
All conditions seem to converge to get the Paradise of the vine: the Provencal climate - dry and sunny - allows the grapes to ripen perfectly, soil filter prevents rare accumulations of rain, and the plots are well isolated from each other. Above all, the mistral blows almost constantly, preventing moisture and illnesses to settle.
A beautiful meeting: Dominique Hauvette and racy wine, complex
However, these natural factors do not explain that only about 90% of areas of designation are Certified Organic Agriculture , nearly a third in Biodynamics.
The Human Factor "the human factor is at least as important," says Jean-Daniel Schlaepfer, Swiss winemaker installed last twenty years Lauzière Mas, in a case of scrub and pine. According to him, a man played a key role in the birth of the appellation Christmas Michelin. Activist in the first hour for Organic crops, he was able to convince all the tenants of the name to follow this approach (see note at end of this article).
Eggs Magical devised and designed by Mr. Schaepfler
Jean-Daniel Schlaepfer in his cellar.
All? Not exactly: One area - the Mas Sainte Berthe - resist and do not wish to submit to the constraints of organic certification. The recalcitrant
The field is led by Christian Nief, universally respected by others producers for the quality of his work and personality. Many were distressed, however, fail to convince him: "He even offers to lend him equipment," says a neighbor well intentioned.
It would be too easy to see that producer an "ugly duckling". Moreover, it would be an exemplary student: tillage, minimum use of herbicides, organic manure, fallow, manual harvesting and winemaking last "natural" without use of selected yeasts, enzymes or additives wine.
But this does not obtain certification, which outlaw some of the treatments. "I'm Bio 8 out of 10 vintages, but I do not want to risk losing my production," he pleads.
In his defense, Christian Nief advance mostly economic arguments: "Our only revenues are those of our wines, and - unlike others - we can not take risks, barely concealed reference to the majority of areas of the designation, held by wealthy investors.
ubiquitous in Les Baux, the Sun and the Alpilles (here the domain of Aeolus)
INAO
The idea of becoming an AOC 100% organic emerged a few years ago, on a proposal from Rene Renou, late President of the National Institute of Appellations of Origin. Paradoxically this same problem today INAO poses. "The record is blocked for more than four years," laments Jean-Andre Charial, president of the union label. "I do not understand why we refuse to become an AOC Bio," said Caroline Missoffe, Mas de la Dame.
Officially, the case is delayed because any changes to appellation regulations should be a complex procedure National Opposition. The timing is bad, full overhaul of procedures and organizations.
But things are more complicated: "According to the regulations, we can not impose an individual certification through a WCA" said Pascal Laville, in charge of the dossier to the INAO. However, nothing prevents the inclusion in the Statement of the AOC measures that reflect the guidelines of organic farming, without imposing certification.
Landscapes Conventional Leases: vines living, breathing ... (Mas Gourgonnier)
"I am optimistic about the outcome File "said Pascal Laville" the goal of INAO is surely not break the momentum by Baux "
This decision is undoubtedly a positive signal to other AOC of France, of which only 5 % of the surface are conducted in organic agriculture, and represent the second largest user of pesticides in the country.
Large families of Bio
All chapels Bio gathered in the small appellation: The Bios
"traditional" converted long, often from the current post -68. They believe that organic is a matter of "common sense farm", and have always applied the principles. For example: Trevallon, Mas Gourgonnier.
"My vines have never seen a single molecule of fertilizer, herbicide or pesticide," says proudly Dürrbach Eloi, who won the pinewood to install its vineyards in the '70s.
Area Trevallon and Eloi Dürrbach: ambition (successful) to make a great wine
The Bio-dynamic : they follow a doctrine more demanding, comprising applying to the vineyards Homeopathic preparations of type, giving more space to the cosmic rhythms. For example: Hauvette, Mas Lauzière Romanin. For more information: Biodyvin
The Bio Natures ": they shall also undertake the use of auxiliaries in their oenological winemaking and préconnisent use sparingly, Sulfites: Henry Milan, whose wines are (as often) the same character: big mouth, uncompromising, and of course lovable! (For more information: Association of Wine Natural )
The New bios : Recently converted they are all convinced by the respect environment than the market interest for organic products
The Christmas story Michelin
Is the son of the founder of the dynasty of the tire from the 60 believed in the potential of the region, and be the first to put his wine in bottles, on behalf of his domain: Terres Blanches. It is also one of the pioneers of organic farming, convinced by a first disastrous experience that the chemical recipes of modern agronomy are wrong.
Other winemakers in the region are unanimous on this point. "Listening to him talk, anyone would became an activist Bio! "Dominique Hauvette confirmed.
Farmer self-taught, he quickly leaves the family empire and operates a coffee farm in Cameroon. He listens to the advice of an agronomist who recommend - to save labor - to get rid of parasites using a new insecticide miraculous. In three years of this treatment, the parasite in question has quickly developed resistant strains, requiring the operator to increase still more doses. Meanwhile, natural predators of the parasite, and the whole ecosystem around - insects as birds - has disappeared.
By creating its field Terres Blanches, he naturally turns to the pioneers of organic farming, Lemaire and Boucher, and sets up the first experiences of using compost in his vineyard.
The north side of Les Baux, seen from a glider (more photos Baux seen from Space here)
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