It was a shame to spend three weeks in the U.S. without visiting some vineyards ... so we improvised a little detour through the "off the beaten path" of Paso Robles.
This appellation is located halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco and a few miles of the Pacific.
With nearly 200 wineries, Paso Robles is the third major production area of California. She is still in the shadow of Napa and Sonoma, but begins to acquire its credentials.
A local peculiarity allows wine quality: the contrast between the water very fresh Pacific (12-15 °) and warm air masses frequently create cool mist, allowing the grapes do not suffer too much until the summer heatwave mid-day. The altitude vineyards (200-400 meters) also cooler nights, allowing grapes to ripen more slowly.
Phillip Hart and vines
We had the time to visit only one area, and I had not taken the time to investigate the area. I I am concerned the only winemaker in Biodynamics: Ambyth Estates.
not chauvinist ... Phillip has the tshirt of a nearby field!
Phillip Hart, the founder of the field, has built a small corner of paradise, nestled atop a hill overlooking the entire region. Isolated, he was able to implement biodynamic viticulture overall, with of cows, chickens, bees , more than 600 olive trees, and a significant biodiversity in the weed. He worked conscientiously its soil and the vines are planted in cups. One of his greatest pride: it irrigation within vineyards, while the practice is common - and allowed - in the region.
Little paradise, clear view ...
cons A total current local fashions, he likes fresh and low alcohol wines, and even grenache harvest in early maturity. Wines and keep a good natural acidity, which is rare in California. Amateur
great wines of the Rhone, he planted Mourvèdre, Grenache and, Syrah, and it has even been planted in the Counoise, one of the varieties "secondary" in the region of Chateauneuf du Pape! But there is ecumenical in its approach since it is also of Sangiovese (the grape of Chianti), and Tampranillo (grape of the Rioja).
The vinification is made naturally in small tanks, and no "input" is added (include all pixie dust that are allowed in winemaking) and low / no use of S02. Its wines
most ambitious and most successful are ReVera Adamo and, with bases for Rhône Grenache and Mourvèdre, plus some Syrah. The wines keep all their fruit, the balance is built on freshness, and alcohol and woodlands are very discreet.
As often in the "Lifestyle Wineries, wines are too expensive (around $ 45), but I still was happy to bring back three bottles.
So I put the finishing touches on this post, I learn that Marcel Lapierre has left us.
For those who do not know, was a famous Marcel Lapierre Morgon winemaker. He was a tireless ambassador of winemaking that we now characterizes as "natural" (although the term is debated). It helped - by its actions, by its words and its wines - the development of an entire generation of winemakers.
link with California?
At the end of our visit Ambyth, Phillip Hart us down in his basement "personal" and proudly showed me the dozen sealed bottles of red wax, a hallmark of Morgon Lapierre. And he tells me about her visit to France in the hills Beaujolois, concluding "this is the man who convinced me to get into the natural winemaking.
This sentence, I have often heard from the lips of wine. I think among other things to this young and talented winemaker Bourguignon, who had the luck to be born at the foot of one of the most beautiful hills in Beaune, winemaking and unbeknownst to his father a barrel without SO2 ... This "daring" , he was at a party with Marcel Lapierre.
Thanks and respect to this gentleman who has given his convictions to all those tenants, to Corton Paso Robles ... He will be missed.
About Ambyth Estates:
Phillip Hart & Mary Morwood Hart
510 Sequoia Lane
Templeton, CA 93465 Phillip
: 805-305-9497
Phillip@ambythestate.com
http: / / www.ambythestate.com/
http://www.ambythestate.blogspot.com/
Rural landscape-chic arriving in Paso Robles